850 70 P1 Evaporator Replacement:

These instructions are based on original work by ‘TECH’, as posted on www.volvo-forums.com .

I have improved on his/her work by adding comments, further explanation, and other points to consider while doing this job. In addition I have added my personal experiences doing this job on my LHD 1995 850 Turbo Wagon as a ‘shade tree mechanic’. Sources of parts are specific to the US market.

Disclaimer: you yourself are responsible for following proper procedures of workmanship and safety. I accept absolutely no responsibility whatsoever as a result of you following these instructions. If you think you need further explanation on what it means to ‘disconnect the battery’, then this job is not for you. If you pursue it anyway, you will soon qualify for the Darwin Awards. www.darwinawards.com

First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.

Next you will need to remove all the R134. The preferred and official way of doing this with the appropriate equipment that only specialized shops will have. Since you have a leaky evaporator, it is possible that there is nothing left in the system.

I purchased a tool to disconnect AC fittings directly from NAPA, that particular tool allowed me to disconnect fitting of 4 different sizes.

T25 socket or bit with a screwdriver, a long T30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet, wire cutters, long T15, T20, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 3/8 and 1/4 drive socket.

Inside Engine Bay:

1.    Remove the wiper arms. There is one 13mm nut per arm. You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut. Remove 4 T25 screws holding the plastic cover under the wiper arms.

2.    Remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.

3.    Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is either 4 T30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car. Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash. The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced. Use Goob Magic Glue to repair the broken tabs, in case they brake off.

4.    Pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one. If not, just remove the ring that is there.

5.    Although it is not necessary, I found it easier to remove the wiper assembly to get access to the dash bolts. Plus I got a chance to vacuum all the debris out.

6.    Remove the 2 heater core lines that go into the firewall. Push the white or yellow plastic clips on both sides of the fitting in towards the center of the line. Pull on the hose to remove. Add these clips to your list of parts you will need to get new. Make note of the correct order of o-rings, sleeves etc for future reference.

7.    Remove the 2 T15 or T20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

8.    Next remove the A/C lines from the evaporator on the outside of the car. But first remove the Allen screw (6 mm Allen bit available at Sears) that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car. It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the R134 port. I had difficulty getting the bolt out so I ended up removing the headlight to get access. Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide towards the headlight, since you removed the Allen screw.

9.    Use the AC fitting tool to press and release the internal snap ring to separate the AC lines. Retrieve the 2 o-rings on each line and put them on your list to purchase.

Remove the center console:

10. If it is an 850, remove the front cubby by removing the 2 T25 screws: one is in front of the lighter angled forward so it is easy to miss. Under the cubby/cover are two T15 screws, remove them.
11. Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T15 screws. Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the two 8mm or 10mm screws. The early 850's may have T25 screws.
12. The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the driver’s seat with the arm rest up.
13. Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest. Remove the 2 screws in there. Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the emergency brake. Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Remove Radio / Climate control

14. Remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way. Unplug and remove the radio.
15. ECC (Electronic climate control), if you have ECC then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back. Be careful put a rag on your arm. Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.
16. MCC (manual climate control): if you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs. Then under the 2 outer knobs are 2 T25 screws. Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring. On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them. You are done here for now.

Remove Air Bag from Steering Wheel:

17. Are you sure you disconnected the battery?  Check this out: www.darwinawards.com
18. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees counter clock wise, from the dead center position. There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel. Insert a long T30 (T25 on my 850) and unscrew the screw that holds the airbag, it will not come out of the hole. Turn the steering wheel 180 degrees and remove the other screw. Unplug the airbag and store it away. Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first. If not then the horn might not work.
19. Locate the little T20 screw stored in the steering wheel at the end of the paper loop. Look to the right and up from the steering wheel bolt and locate the opening through the steering wheel housing. In there is a black plastic tab with a hole. Turn the steering wheel so that the black plastic tab is lined up with a circular landing below it. The steering wheel is now approximately in the center position.
20. Take a magic marker and mark the relative position of the steering wheel to the steering shaft. This will help you put everything back together again in an efficient manner.
21. Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose and unscrew it a few turns.
22. Install the small screw to prevent the contact reel from unrolling.
23. Remove the steering wheel bolt, and remove the steering wheel. It is an 18mm hex bolt.
    
    

Next remove the steering column covers.

24. On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it. Then loosen and remove the T25 screws in the bottom cover. The screws go from the bottom going up.
25. On the 850 you will have to remove 2 T15 screws in the bottom cover. These screws hold the top cover to the bottom cover. A regular torque screw driver will not be long enough. Sears has one that is extra long. The openings are closest to the front near the steering wheel. You will need it to be long to reach the screws. That will remove the top cover. Note be careful removing the T15 screws. Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
26. Remove the 2 T25 screws and remove the lower cover.
    
    

Remove turn signal/wiper switch / SRS reel:

27. Remove each switch, they are held on by 2 T25 screws each.
28. Remove the SRS contact reel. Note: be very careful the plastic is very brittle. There is 3 screws total holding it in. Then unplug it and remove it all the way.
    
    

Preparations for removing the dash (1):

29. Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.
30. Look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug. The bottom half will hinge down and towards the rear of the car. Locate two black pins from the latch on either side of the red plug, and push those up. Remove the latch. Pull it and release it. That is the main plug for the dash.
31. Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters. There are three 13mm nuts holding it. Note: you can wait till you remove the dash. It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
32. Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door. The sill cover runs all the way back. Pull it off by the dash. You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash. Remove the 10mm screw. Do the same on the other side.

Preparations for removing the dash (2):

33. Remove the glove box assembly. Remove the T25 screws holding it in. On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole. Then remove the insert.
    Also unplug the passenger side Air bag. Are you sure the battery is disconnected?
34. You will see the plug. Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.
    
    

Removal of the dash:

35. The dash should be ready to come out. Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
    You will need to leave the key out of the ignition. To get the car out of park, press the button near the shifter to release the solenoid.
    Remove the dash.
36. If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost gauge if the car has one. On mine I decided to cut the hose. Look near the hood release and find a hard plastic tube coming from the engine. Near the hood release it is inserted into a rubber hose. Squeeze the soft hose to find the end of the hard plastic hose, and cut is directly after that. Simply remove the soft rubber hose piece, later you can simply insert it again into the rubber hose to re-establish the connection.
37. Some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash. Watch while removing.
38. Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.
39. Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.
    
    

 Remove the white colored Heating and AC box:

40. Pull and remove the 2 black air ducts that go to the white A/C box.
41. Remove the wiring for the blower motor, resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.
42. Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
43. Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case. Let them hang for now.
44. On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphragm and a rod for the cruise control. Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
45. Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car. Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
46. Note: on the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car. That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

Remove the evaporator:

47. When the case is loose, pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat. I removed the white box from the car entirely.
48. Remove the blower motor. Remove it by removing the 3 T15 screws.
49. Then remove the rest of the T15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.
50. There are several metal clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the blower motor was.
51. Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the evaporator.
52. Tada! ….. Replace the evaporator. Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.
53. I bought an aftermarket evaporator from NAPA for $129, on first look it appeared identical to the original Volvo part that was in there. On closer inspection it appeared it was slightly more narrow. This would allow air to bypass the evaporator. This was quickly fixed by adding some foam door strip to seal against the casing (available at Home Depot/Lowe’s).
    
    

Inspection of the Heater Core:

54. Lift the driver’s side floor mat and determine if it is wet underneath. If so, you may have a leaking heater core or if you are lucky, two o-rings that need replacing.
55. Turn the white box upside down and observe the area where the two aluminum tubes enter the heater core. If there is any sign of corrosion there, you have had coolant leaking there. At least you should remove the tubes from the heater core and replace the o-rings. Put them on your list of stuff to get from the dealer.
56. Install the cover back on top of the evaporator and get ready to put it back into the car.

Replace the Drier:

57. Now it is time to decide if you are going to replace the drier. Mine was severely rusted so bad it could have been one of my R134 leaks. I bought a new aftermarket at NAPA for $75, Volvo dealer wanted a lot more. The new one is made from Aluminum or Stainless Steel, so no rust from this baby.
58. Remove the black plastic cover underneath the radiator.
59. Disconnect the drier line from the pipe running alongside the engine, using the special tool. Drop the drier down and attempt to disconnect the fitting, tools needed are 27 mm and 23 open end wrenches. I was unable to do it underneath the car, so I ended up removing the AC hose/drier from the AC compressor. There is a single 6mm Allen screw that hold the hose. To get to it, is another story. I removed most of the intercooler duct, the fan etc, to get access for my tools. There is another o-ring between the flange of the hose and the compressor. Make sure to put it on the list of parts to get from the dealer.

Some points to observe while putting everything back together:

·        When you stick the box back in, make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong. If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.
Leave the plastic plugs inside the evaporator pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs. Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through. It will make it easier to go in.
I decided to leave access to the heater core connections, rather than put everything back together. This allowed me to observe that my heater core connections were not leaking before I put it back together.
Put everything back together in reverse order.

·        To get your AC working again you will need to evacuate the AC system. A quick check with the local Volvo dealer and a Firestone garage, revealed that it would cost between $200-$250.

·        I bought the tools necessary from an auto parts store for a little bit over $100.

·        You will need a compressor that can do 4 cfm at 90 psi to use the vacuum pump.

·        The actual procedure takes about 1 hr, most of which is you watching the vacuum gauge.

·        You have lost some of the AC oil while doing the above work, this needs to be added back into your system.

Financials

At my preferred local Volvo dealer there is an 11 hour labor charge to do this job, plus $350 or more for the evaporator. At $75 per hour, the total job comes to about $1,600 including the AC work. Not included is stuff they find while doing the job, for instance the heater core. That could easily bring it up to $1,900. I probably put upwards of 16 hr into this job, not counting the time driving back and forth to the parts store.

Deducting my parts cost of about $500, my labor (savings) rate is then about $85 per hour, not bad for a shade tree mechanic!

Oh, I forgot to mark the steering wheel position with the magic marker, so I messed up on the air bag installation, SRS light came on and now it needs to be reset by the dealer….. $49,50….. BUMMER.